Leadville 100 – A Flat Landers Story (My 1st 100 miler)

Novi, MI altitude 900 ft.
Leadville, CO altitude 10,200 ft, Hope Pass altitude 12,600 ft.

It is now a week since I completed the 2010 Leadville Trail 100 mile endurance run, aka LT 100, aka “The Race Across the Sky”. As I sit here under very different circumstances I try to gather my thoughts and connect the dots. I could start by talking about the race directly, which was intense, but equally so was the training and build up to get me to toe the start line.

I turned 50 in June 2010 and my goal for the year was to run five 50’s and Boston in the Spring. LT 100 sorta, kinda crept up on me stealthily as I started to chip away at my goal; completing 50 milers 1,2,3…

Along the way to completing these 50s I became aware of the big dogs in my Ultra Running group aka RUT who had either completed a 100 or were in training mode to do so. The big news for RUT was the successful lottery wins for four RUT-sters into the 2010 Western States 100 (WS 100). That was a big deal. This does not diminish the achievements of RUT-sters down for other 100’s: Hallucination, Mohican, Rocky Raccoon, Burning River, Umstead, Oil Creek and Bear but for WS 100 not only do you need to qualify, win in the lottery, bring about world peace, you have to do mandatory volunteer work. OK I made up the one about world peace. So there we have it, I’m aware each training run that RUT-sters are gearing up for WS 100 and other 100’s. For one RUT-ster his WS 100 lottery win was a “dream” fifteen years in the making; a crowning achievement to an already prestigious running resume.

As 2010 rolled on I also became aware that three other RUT-sters were also signed up for LT100: Ken, Steve, and Keith; so “Team RUT LT100” was born; they had each run 100’s previously, Ken was signed up for WS 100 in June but this was to be my first.

For a number of weeks I kept this “news” to myself, harboring concerns and doubts that this would not be credibly embraced by my fellow runners. As I drip, drip, fed, hinted at my LT 100 entry I was greeted with polite expressions of concern “Oh”, “Ah….jumping right in then”, “Are you really sure that’s a good idea?”. Ummm…when is running a 100 ever a “good idea” : )

So any ways the mongoose is out of the bag and psychologically that helped me. The 50s that were my primary goal now became stepping stones to the LT100 start line.

With regards a "Training Plan" I found Dana Roueche's "Strategy to Finish the Leadville Trail 100" exceptionally helpful.

As the weeks passed “Team RUT LT100” made their travel plans. One organized the group accommodation, another the transportation; I guess I was just along for the ride.

Thursday 8/19. We congregate at DTW airport. As we hurtle down the runway into the blue skies we attempt to get some rest during the two hour flight. At Denver airport we pick up our wheels and start the two hour drive to Dreadville, sorry I mean Leadville. The drive was epic: beautiful vistas, panoramic views, precipitous mountains, and deep valleys. We all exclaimed how “big” everything looked. The car’s engine tone changed as it shifted down gears as we started the relentless climb, up, as equally relentless as the hills come the race. Upon reflection if I had done the training camp, knowing I was having to come back and do it all over again would have fazed me. Ignorance was bliss.

As we crested peaks along the highway signs would inform us as to our altitude: 8,500 ft, 9,000ft, 9,500ft. I sniffed the air carefully to see if there was any left. Leadville was at 10,200ft, still some more climbing left. I looked around the car and realized it was not equipped with supplemental oxygen masks as on our airplane for use should a window blow out. May be I should mention this to Hertz when we get back?

Arriving at Leadville we drive up to the “Leadville Hostel”, our abode the next four days, at which already congregated were many other runners. We checked in. There is a story there too but one for private ears only, like the whole race it had some drama in it; nuff said.

At the Hostel. Smile while you're still able to

I’ve not been in a Hostel for many years and we joked if they’d be giving us chores like: washing the dishes, sweeping the floors or emptying the trash. They didn’t. We go to the rental car. Keith quickly discovers a bag has been left at the Hertz rental pickup. Oh no! The bag with all his running kit in, expensive camera, orthopedics, etc. He said he did not sleep well that night thinking about this loss but Keith did extremely well and kept his cool. Many calls were made to the airport and after many hours he received a call back that the bag had been located. Chris, Ken’s pacer, the trooper he is, volunteered to drive back to Denver Airport in the morning, 120 miles and retrieve it.

Gun Slingers. Me, Ken Steve

Later that afternoon a mild headache started to set in, a precursor to acclimating. We pick up are race packets, are weighed in, and wristbands marked with our weight, 157 lbs, are attached. We scope out the town, get something to eat, rest up, to bed early.

"Hippies Use Backdoor" We had to use the back door

 Friday 8/20. Mandatory race meeting. Main floor is packed, we decide to go up to the balcony. Chris McDougall “Born to Run” author is sat right behind us. He shakes all our hands and wishes us well. Race founder, Ken Chlouber gives his annual pep talk and rallies the crowd Churchillian style to dig deep by reciting the LT 100 mantra “You’re better than you think you are and you can do more than you think you can.” Oh I do hope so!

Pre Race Meeting. Where's Anton? 

An assortment of Bling.The huge buckle is for 2000 miles aka “20 Finishes!”

“We look good. I’m mean, Really good.”Keith, Ken, Ken Chlouber, Steve, Me

After the meeting we find a place to eat. Dump our drop bags at the designated point. Back at the hostel a final kit check. Bed early. Still have a headache, nose very dry.

Sat 8/21. 2AM, the alarm goes off in preparation for the 4AM start. We all choose to ignore it. I don’t think anybody stirred until 2:30AM. Breakfast. With 30 min to go we kit up and walk to the start which was about a quarter of a mile away. In the throng of runners (642) a race official checks us in. Some one points and says “Hey there’s Anton.” He’s bundled up wearing a jacket and beanie, stretching out, running up and down the hilly road. I’m thinking, “Ummm, I’ll save my warm up for the start.” Anton stops near by. I go over, shake his hand and wish him well. He kindly obliges to be in a group shot, a nice souvenir. Thank you Anton.

“Smile Please”: Me, Anton Krupicka, Keith and Steve

T-Minus 2 minutes!

Start to May Queen, Distance 13.5 m, Total Distance 13.5 m,

Total Time 2hr 36 min,Time ahead of cut off 39 min, Pace 11:33

4AM, “Bang” a shot gun fires and “therrreee off”. Lots of cheering and noise. Chris Ken’s pacer waves to us from the bleachers, he will pace Ken from Winfield (mile 50). I had a goal, “Finish, no heroics”. Take it easy.

The RUT-sters cunningly secrete themselves near the back of the throng to avoid being sucked into the pace vortex created by the eager beaver front runners. I’m no expert but considered that making my break for the finish within the first 200 yds of a 100 miler to be somewhat premature.

The race starts by going down hill for around three miles. You naughty little LT 100, you. I make a point of stopping to see the myriad of bobbing headlamps behind me. I take a photo. Get into my grove, soon hit the trail and due to the masses proceed Conga style slowly to the first aid station; May Queen. It’s day now, I stash my headlamp in a pocket, tie my jacket round my waist, and take a quick bite to eat and drink, off we go. RUT-sters together, “One for all and all for one.”

May Queen to Fish Hatchery, Distance 10 m, Total Distance 23.5 m,
Total Time 5hr 03min ,Time ahead of cut off 57 min Pace 14:42

The first big climb, Sugarloaf Pass 11,000 ft. Time to walk. Once crested the climb down was steep. I remember thinking “This’ll be tough coming back in 64 miles time?” At Fish Hatechery a volunteer offers to refill my hydration pack. Snafu, she couldn’t figure how to screw the large filler cap back on; diluted Cytomax is pouring out, “Hi, let’s see if I can do that?”

Fish Hatchery (Drop Bag) to Half Moon II, Distance 7 m, Total Distance 30.5 m,
Total Time 6 hr 51min, Time ahead of cut off 69 min, Pace 15:26

Mental block. Stuff happened, cant’ fully remember? Changed socks. Paved roads. The crew area was a mile or so from the Half Moon II aid station that was a bit demoralizing.

Half Moon II to Twin Lakes, Distance 9 m, Total Distance 39.5 m,
Total Time 8 hr 48min, Time ahead of cut off 102 min, Pace13:00

Mental block. Stuff happened, cant’ fully remember? Lots of climbing, steep descent in to Twin Lakes.

Twin Lakes to Winfield, Distance 10.5 m, Total Distance 50 m ,
Total Time 13 hr 32min, Time ahead of cut off 28 min, Pace 27:03

This is the meat and two veg of the race. The ascent over Hope Pass, 12,600 ft. But first after leaving Twin lakes and crossing a swampy meadow you are welcomed by a series of five river crossings to get you in the mood. The deepest had a rope setup to guide you knee deep through the freezing water. My feet were momentarily numb.

Now starts the relentless climb up Hope Pass. From 9,200ft to 12,600ft in around three miles. Anton and his pacer Dakota Jones careen downwards gazelle like past me as I start my ascent. Hey, they’re around 18 miles ahead of me. Impressive! You eventually get to an altitude where the trees stop growing, treeline, I guess they have more sense than me to continue.

Ascent up Hope Pass, “Follow the Leader”

I sucked air big time trying to extract every molecule of O2 to oxygenate my spent blood. Luckily I had no headache or anything I could recognize as altitude sickness. It was totally hard. Stop you in your track turns on the switch backs. It represented a low point, I questioned why am I doing this; for what purpose; what are you trying to prove to yourself? Give up running and take up gardening instead. I managed to keep it in gear, plod, plod, “relentless forward motion.” 500 feet from the summit it levels off at the reassuringly named Hopeless Aid Station. I really wanted to keep pressing on but forced myself to stop, take some photos and admire the view and the herd of llamas used to haul the aid up there. Surreal.

At Hopeless Aid Station. A curious on looker.“I think this is as close as I should get. They spit!”

“And this too shall pass”, and in deed it did. Now the long steep run, gravity assisted fall, down to Winfield. I was startled by the heavy traffic making their way back up the trail to Hope Pass. We had to stop to allow each other to pass. Slowed me down. A sign that the volume of runners was probably too much for this race.

The descent to Winfield

It took me 4hrs and 44 min to get to Winfield from Twin Lakes. A distance of 10.5 miles, that’s a snail like pace of 27 min/mile! I had depleted my cut off time buffer by a whopping 74 min. This was the point in the race I was closest to missing a cut off. If I’d arrived at Twin Lakes at the designated cut off time I would have been given only 3hrs 30mins to make it to Winfield. Just as well I had banked some time getting into Twin Lakes.

Winfield (Drop Bag) to Twin Lakes, Distance 10.5 m, Total Distance 60.5 m,
Total Time 17 hr 09min, Time ahead of cut off 36 min, Pace 20:46

Entering Winfield I felt I’d benefit from a pacer; please. After eating, drinking, changing socks, getting weighed (154 lbs, had dropped only 3 lbs), I sidle up to the “Pacer Table”. My luck was in. Yippee. A guy called BJ had just become available as a consequence of his runner calling it a day at Winfield. BJ’s goal was to pace a runner back over Hope Pass to Twin Lakes, now he had me.

Me and BJ heading out of Twin Lakes

Walking out of Winfield I quickly get to know BJ, an Iron Man triathlete, his wife Jess drives past shouting encouragements and takes some photos. Shortly into the walk I meet Steve coming the other way, his race is over, he will end at Winfield. I give him a hug and wish him well. As BJ and I start our ascent back over Hope Pass BJ kindly offers to mule for me taking my hydration pack and jacket, literally a weight off my back. What a change. I felt so good I took off my top and ran or should I say shuffled along bare chested “Anton style”, there in ends any other similarities. Due to the steep climb on occasion I would lose my balance but with BJ behind me he’d grab my waist to prevent me falling. A ways into the climb I meet Keith coming down, he did not make the Hope Pass cutoff, he will end at Winfield. Though tiring this wasn’t as gut busting as the earlier up and over. Mixed terrain: single track trail, rocks. After leaving the Hopeless aid station it felt good to open up my stride and get some running in after all those hours of climbing and walking. I was worried for my quads on the down hills but they held together good and thankfully were never a major concern.
 
It took me 3hrs 38 mins to get back over Hope Pass to Winfield a pace of 21 min/mile. Better. The snail had some legs.

Twin Lakes to Half Moon II, Distance 9 m, Total Distance 69.5 m,
Total Time 19 hr 42 min, Time ahead of cut off 63 min, Pace 16:53
 
It is now dark. I say thanks and hug BJ, he says he’ll see me at the finish. I’m greeted by my official pacer, Sara, a member of the Denver Trail Runners I’d found searching online under “Colorado Trail Running clubs”. Sara had recognized me in a heartbeat running across the blue timing mat into the aid station shed, me too her. She had completed LT 100 in 2005 (as well as WS 100), and paced runners the previous two years to success; hopefully three years lucky then? In the aid station shed I sit down, Sara brings over some pumpkin pie, a slice of which goes down nice and easy. I feel a bit like an overwhelming task master as within one minute of meeting her I’m deluging her with a list of requests: water, coke, melon in a baggy, drop bag, change of clothes, lights. I felt I was a bit demanding in those first few minutes of meeting Sara, thinking “I hope I don’t offend her?” I guess she’d seen, heard it all before and she was just great. We hit it off well. She made my race a lot more manageable. Off we go. Walking and eating. Sara quickly asks where she should place herself, I say “To the back or side please but not ahead of me”. To begin with Sara was quite conversational wanting to get to know a bit about myself but I was struggling with talking on the move and breathing, I couldn’t do them both at the same time. I didn’t want to appear rude but had to say how things were.

Guardian Angel: Sara my Pacer Twin Lakes - Finish

There was a steep ascent out of Twin Lakes, I kept slipping, again my pacer was there holding me up. In the dark I start to pass some wobbly runners, more zombie like than alive, probably extras from “Resident Evil”? The walking wounded. I pass other runners crashed out sleeping on the trail. I vowed to keep moving, “relentless forward motion.”

Half Moon II to Fish Hatchery, Distance 7 m, Total Distance 76.5 m,
Total Time 21 hr 51min, Time ahead of cut off 69 min, Pace 18:17

Sara keeps me honest by enforcing a strict eating, drinking, S-caps! regimen. I believe this was a life saver and pivotal in getting me to the finish. After barfing going up Hope Pass on a GU the first time round I’d given up at attempting to eat them. Sara had brought along some “Power Bar Energy Gel Blasts” which provoked zero gag reflex and so I was able to eat in a relaxed manner. They were tough to chew but manageable. All day I was on light food, particularly melon that I would put in the plastic baggy at each aid station and eat on the walk. Whenever it was time to eat and swallow I had to slow down to literally catch my breath. This was the pattern for the remained of the race.

To keep me going through the night I hit upon the idea of turning attention away from myself and onto the other runners. I don't know where it came from but I was feeling in very good spirits and amazed at what we were all doing; out there, in the middle of the night. I decided to become a Cheerleader. Sara had me on a "run, walk" plan, so as I power hiked passed sleepy runners I would engage them with “Look at you, you’re motoring”, “Hey rock star, you’re looking good”. Earlier in the day I’d picked up on what other runners did when wanting to pass; they’d make a loud train noise “Choo-Choo”, instead of the usual “runner on your left”. That was fun, cathartic, and would wake people up : )

Fish Hatchery (Drop Bag) to May Queen, Distance 10 m, Total Distance 86.5 m,

Total Time 25 hr 27min, Time ahead of cut off 64 min, Pace 21: 36

Changed socks. Time to get back over Sugarloaf Pass. Definitely not as sweet the second time round but being dark and not being able to see the top appeared to help. There were about ten false summits; you know what I think to myself “It is what it is. Keep on motoring.” Sara continues to remind me to eat and drink and hands out Gel Blasts and melon slices. Along the way with seconds to go before my watch showed 24:00:00 I stopped and called Sara over. I shone a torch on my watch and wondered, “I’d been on the move for one day, neat.”

“Good Morning.” At Fish Hatcher Aid Station, mile 76.5

May Queen to Finish, Distance 13.5 m, Total Distance 100 m,

Total Time 29 hr 04 min, Time ahead of cut off  56min, Pace 16:04

The night had gone better than I was anticipating. I’d heard that the wee hours could be challenging but I did not feel affected by tiredness until around 5AM, just before dawn. 

Along the way day broke. Yes it was nice but I didn’t get the rejuvenating boost I’d hoped for or been promised. I had some minor hallucinations; in fact I was looking forward to this part. I saw a giant rabbit, probably about three feet tall on the side of the trail that “turned into” a log and twigs as I shuffled past. I’d started pointing these “animals” out to Sara and when I saw an unfamiliar mammal like creature scurry across my path and dart along a fallen tree I excitedly exclaim “There can you see it, it’s at the end of that fallen tree.” “No I can’t see it?”. “No, but it’s right there” I say pointing. “Describe it to me?”, “Well it looks like a fat rabbit with a short tail”, “Did it have rounded ears?”, “I think so”, “Ah, it could be a Pika.” I now think I’ve seen a Pokemon?

Pikachu #25

It was an incredibly long slog all the way around Turquoise Lake to Tabor boat ramp and the exit on to the paved road. I was given conflicting distances for how long it was back which had me continually guesstimating a finish time. On the plus side as one bystander shouted “Hey pick it up mister this is the last flat stretch before the climb!” I took that onboard and with the urging of Sara “ran” what I could to bank some minutes as those cut offs were always foremost in my mind.

Mile 97: Starting to wilt. “Are we there yet!”

“Hi There”, Looking good for the camera

Time to pick it up. “Run Andrew, Run!”

Leaving the shore line, I power hiked best I could along the Boulevard. Turning left onto 6th Street I made the spontaneous decision to run the last mile, “Well this is what you came for, isn’t it”. I got into a shuffle run groove, Sara requested to take my hydration pack and off I went, sucking wind, occasionally looking up to see the Finish banner, hearing the shouts of the people, seeing the red carpet and feeling the finish line tape across my chest.

The Red Carpet Treatment. Moments before this shot the little kid was dancing on the carpet. I thought I was going to run in to him. Not cool!

Done! Catch my breath. BJ is at the finish with his wife Jess and they come over to congratulate me. BJ gets another hug. I find out that Ken narrowly missed the Fish Hatchery (inbound) cutoff, bummer!

A race official requests that I go to the medical tent for weigh in; 153 lbs, I’d only lost 4 pounds during the race. So if a friend interested in taking up running says to you “Is running a good way to lose some weight?” please be careful what you tell them : )

Breaking the Tape – All Finishers get to do this.

“Hi, Yes I have just Finished.”Ken Chlouber race founder to the left.

As the 30 hour cut off approaches Ken Chlouber moseyed up to the Finish, shot gun in hand, held aloft. The spectators go into a frenzy, shouting loudly as a runner pushes towards the finish with but seconds remaining. The posted results indicate that runner #145 made it home with 46.7 seconds to spare! Sandbagger. At the awards ceremony he gets a special award; a chrome plated back end of a mule on a wooden stand aka the “Last Ass over the Pass” : ) He receives a raucous round of applause and cheers.

As tradition has it, due to the emotion of the event, Ken respectfully turns his back to the Finish…and “Bang” the race is over. I see a group of three within 200 yards of the finish.

Ken gets ready to signal the end of the Race at 30:00:00 Sharp!

Awards Ceremony. Me, Merilee RD, Ken Chlouber (race founder).
Every finisher's name is called out to receive their award

Post race recovery. Profoundly weary; I feel like someone has taken a big spoon, scooped out all my inner being and left me as a husk, but in a good way. I don’t exactly feel sleepy tired, it’s deeper and more pervasive than that. No blisters, no missing toe nails, or pulled muscles. First night in bed rough. Could feel the burn like I was cooking on the inside as my body started to repair itself. Could walk reasonably well in the morning. I lost my sense of taste for three days.

Over the next few days I started to read other runners race reports. One included the line "When I reached to turn on my headlamp on my head, it was gone...Until I found a great runner from Michigan who gave me his flashlight. Wow. Seriously? Only in the ultra-running world!" That was Ken and typical of his selfless approach to helping others out in the field.

Great friends: Ken, Steve, and Keith : )

Walked my dog Barkley

"Walkies"

Post Race Reflections. In my short time as an Ultra runner I have learnt what a humbling experience it can be. I need to let everyone know that I firmly hold that I would not have made it to the finish without the support of Ken, Steve and Keith. 

Driving to work Tuesday I hear this song on the radio.

The Hours "Ali In The Jungle"

"Everybody gets knocked down, How quick are you gonna' get up? Just how are you gonna' get up?
Like Ali in the jungle,
Like Nelson in jail,
It's, not, where you are, It's where you're going, Where are you going? And it's, not, about the things you've done, it's what you're doing, now, What are you doing, now?"

Ultra running breeds resilience and in the words of Arnie: Ken, Steve and Keith have already vowed "We'll be back".